“There Is Much Pain in the World But Not in This Room”

As we reach the crest of the baggy pants era, the question of what kind of pants silhouettes will be in vogue has been top of mind. Are flares due for a real comeback? Is Ozempic going to usher in a great reskinnying?

Possibly! But—bear with me—perhaps thinking purely in terms of silhouette demonstrates a lack of imagination. Brands like ALL-IN (which started as a magazine) are recontexualizing what pants can even be, using upcycled skirts, jeans, belts, and more pants to create Franken-garments that defy easy categorization. As founder Benjamin Barron once told us: “It’s very beautiful to see that you can find these things that are nothing and so easily turn them into something else.”

It’s unclear when, exactly, we normalized the boy brief. (Perhaps Lady Gaga is the source code.) But there’s an undercurrent that feels very punk. Designers like Laura Andraschko (known for her fashion experiments that nod to unlikely inspirations, like Myspace-era emo and sexy Alpine-ism) are embracing homely comfort that makes a statement in the real world. Andraschko, who grew up in Berlin, knows her way around a party. “I started way too young!” she once told us. “I went to all the clubs—KitKat, Berghain, Renate, and smaller underground goth clubs. It was intense.” Meanwhile, brands that specialize in luxe basics like FLORE FLORE are pushing toward new levels of refinement.

Antwerp-born designer Julie Kegels, meanwhile, is taking underwear as outerwear to surprising new places, with loud colors and patternwork that juxtaposes Boomer motifs with the devil-may-care attitude of Gen Z.

Alain Paul’s dance background informs his namesake label, ALAINPAUL, in such a way that the cut of his clothes are designed to articulate beautifully. But this season’s use of sheer fabrics are less about peekaboo sensuality and more about an expression of strength: the body as a locus of agency.

New York–based Commission is one of the buzziest young labels out, playing with futuristic ideas that toy with nostalgia, yet never actually steep in it. Take this jacket, hoodie, and shorts combo that feels vaguely like a P.E. throwback but is deceptively advanced.

Speaking of buzz, Japanese label AURALEE is known for its polished tailoring and ahead-of-trend color stories. The monochromatic puffer vest-as-top and pants here manage to feel like a surprise maneuver while defying seasonality.

Meanwhile, New York–based designer Raimundo Langlois, whose work often centers the energy of youth culture, shows us that a strong pair of pants can carry an entire look.

Note the subtle lace band on these Edward Cuming pants, which elevates the pinstripes with a winky sensuality. And the luxe sheen of baggy shorts from ABRA (paired with the brand’s boots and ballet flats juxtapose a soft gentility with hard silhouettes.

Note the subtle lace band on these Edward Cuming pants, which elevates the pinstripes with a winky sensuality. And the luxe sheen of baggy shorts from ABRA (paired with the brand’s boots and ballet flats juxtapose a soft gentility with hard silhouettes.

The term “officecore” may be a TikTok psyop, but some of the most exciting new designs are emerging out of looks associated with traditional menswear. Take the Copenhagen-based menswear brand mfpen, which deploys artful touches of slouchiness that defy sloppiness and manage to feel refined. That kind of versatility, these days, is proving something of a necessity.