UK-based designer Stanely Raffington is a product of Central Saint Martins, a notable London art school which has seen such greats as Craig Green, Alexander McQueen, and Kim Jones pass through its doors. Raffington explores technical design through the brilliant use of color, often paying homage to his Jamaican roots with Rastafarian motifs like black, red, and yellow crochet pieces. Raffington’s inaugural collection post-graduation in 2022 was buzzworthy thanks to a fashion show during the Spring/Summer 2023 season that saw appearances by FKA Twigs and Madonna. With laser-cut techniques on knitwear and leather as well as 3D-printed accessories, his debut collection appealed to the eye with interesting optical illusions.

The young designer draws inspiration from his grandfather’s style in 1990s London, and he’s been able to tap into his heritage and his cultural background now more than ever—a far cry from how disconnected he had felt growing up. His use of 3D printing exemplifies the new wave of tech entering the fashion space, through his laser-cut leather, asymmetrical knitwear, and 3D-printed bags. This is his expression of self and his journey back to where he comes from. His storytelling through the lens of his grandfather and the parallels of his own world today are shown in innovative ways.

While nostalgia might have fueled his creativity, Raffington reveals a futuristic approach to classic silhouettes of Rastafarian and Jamaican style, which has quickly garnered interest on the internet and gained him an avid online following. Although his brand is only just taking off, longevity seems to be the goal for Raffington. With an affinity for technical wear and elevating it to new standards, the young designer has barely scratched the surface of what’s possible. There’s so much more to see as his first collection is an amalgamation of his experiences and love and pride for his roots. Such vibrance and joy is invoked in his pieces, and this has quickly propelled Raffington into a spotlight that won’t be dimming anytime soon. ⸺ Kerane Marcellus

“It’s about exploring my roots and heritage.”

British designer Mowalola Ogunlesi’s eponymous brand sits at the top of the list for some consumers. She’s a creator who isn’t afraid to take risks, shake the table, and change the narrative. When she launched her brand in 2017, it was clear that her works were meant to stand out. Pieces made of PVC, leather, and cutouts with gender-bending elements made Ogunlesi’s label the talk of the industry. It’s no surprise prominent names like Rihanna, Kelela, Naomi Campbell, and Solange Knowles have been seen wearing her designs.

Her first show was a commentary on the colonial view of Black masculinity. She counteracted that view with a sensual, nonbinary approach to clothing, garnering the attention of Lulu Kennedy from designer incubator Fashion East. Ogunlesi, a graduate of London’s famed Central Saint Martins art school, had her beginnings in the industry with the UK talent incubator that propelled her career from launchpad into the tumultuous world of fashion. From there, she’s cut her teeth on a plethora of fashion gigs to gain experience and expand her network. Those include Yeezy Gap, Wales Bonner, and Celine. Since then, Ogunlesi has grown exponentially with seasonal runway shows inspired by Y2K aesthetics, her Nigerian roots, and an array of subjects that touch on race, gender, and sex.

In her East London studio—filled with a “Do what you want to do” energy she’s used as her mantra—Ogunlesi reflects on what fashion means to her. Both her parents are also designers who run successful Nigerian businesses, so the natural approach to design for Ogunlesi is to just go for it. “When I’m creating sometimes, things are not that precious to me. I’m about to go in a completely other direction,” she says.

“I feel very much childlike when I’m creating.”

Ogunlesi often designs from the perspective of films. In her runway show, we’ve seen her perspective on David Cronenberg’s movie Crash, with models dressed as if they were characters who just experienced a violent brush with death. The creative is no stranger to eliciting double takes with her pieces, so often ensuring that you have to look again and again.

Working from her own timeline, Ogunlesi doesn’t let the fashion calendar restrain her from a full range of motion and creativity—even her launch was out of the ordinary. She cites Telfar Clemens as another example of someone changing the fashion narrative by switching business models from wholesale to a direct-to-consumer approach. Thanks to her innovative efforts, she’s been able to build a cult following of consumers who don her popular snapback trucker hats, graphic-print baby tees, and leather extra-mini skirts.

There’s no telling what direction Ogunlesi will choose next, but from the looks of it she’ll keep world-building until all her universes start to align to create one big picture. ⸺ Kerane Marcellus

Bianca Saunders has been subverting the ideals that are often associated with menswear since 2017. For some, this market segment consists of basic tees and minimalist trousers that can be worn to the office and beyond. However, Saunders instead focuses on flipping men’s clothing on its head with self-expressive pieces such as pleated blazers and gathered tops. These experimental looks are for those who aren’t interested in being wallflowers. “I want men to wear clothing that makes them feel different but still feel empowered in a way,” Saunders shares.

The distinctness that lies in Saunders’s clothing is influenced by her Jamaican and British background. She uses these signifiers not only to create garments that are impeccably built but also to invite customers into her universe—one that’s filled with immaculate draping and forward-thinking silhouettes. “I start each collection as if I’m starting again. I spent a lot of time at the library flicking through books and then coming up with a story,” Saunders adds. The masculine form serves as muse for the designer, who cut her teeth at London’s Royal Academy of Arts.

The brand’s ethos lies in Saunders’s fresh perspective on what can be seen as acceptable workwear and sportswear. In this distinct moment, she is interpreting what she believes to be modern; cuts and cinches that are tailored to perfection. This subtleness and dedication to her craft is what makes the designer’s point of view so important. Each construction is of the utmost importance to Saunders, as it is a means of self-expression that gives her the opportunity to push her edgy agenda: redefining and celebrating masculinity.

“I want men to wear clothes that makes them feel different but still feel empowered.”

A layer of authenticity and tastefulness exists in each collection. The staples within her lines allow the pieces to be viewed beyond the lens of menswear—some feel genderless. The eponymous brand has acquired a following due to these sentiments but also due to how effortlessly her clothing can fit into one’s current wardrobe. With her inspirations, Saunders blends diversity and individualism while simultaneously dismissing gender norms. By doing so, the designer provides intricate options for individuals who are choosing to veer away from conventional fashion choices.

Intertwined into the seams of each garment created by the designer is a hint of sophistication. The refined elegance arrives in the form of split hems, tucked waists and vests, or tops created with eloquent layers. Each piece speaks to Saunders’s ability to envision purposeful men’s clothing whilst making concise and somewhat minimalist designs.

Aside from pushing forward her own agenda within the fashion industry, the designer is also fixated on creating clothes that will stand the test of time. With their quirky details, these pieces have inherent value because Saunders imbues them with meaning. Her sharp eye leads to garments that are ushering in an era of exploration for British fashion. Saunders’s accomplishments so far have been spectacular to watch. These include winning the Andam Grand Prix Fashion Award in 2021 and being named to the Forbes 30 Under 30 list in 2020. With her impressive résumé and inspiring craftsmanship she is well on the path to success in the global fashion market. ⸺ Robyn Mowatt