Simone Rocha launched menswear, Bode launched womenswear, and Martine Rose is making clothes for everyone.

“To me, it’s not really about men’s or women’s but about the relationship between the two poles,” said Simone Rocha after her SS23 runway show where she officially launched menswear. The designer called the jump into men’s fashion a result of her more “hardcore” era, but it also reflects fashion’s evolving attitudes towards gender. (Finally.) Rather than differentiate between womenswear and menswear collections, designers like Martine Rose and Emily Adams Bode Aujla at Bode are making clothing for all bodies.

“What desire can be contrary to nature since it was given to man by nature itself?”—Michel Foucault

The ideal attractive human being is now indistinguishable from the dominant meme styles proliferating on social media, and thus it is difficult to track where hotness is heading. Desire could appear under the guise of “dark academia” or #corecore. There are already rumblings of a more advanced corecorecore taking hold among crucial players who shape the sexual imagination—If “the media” exists to tell us who or what is hot, then what will be conditioned to want next? Are the days of the well-endowed goth-adjacent romantic partner behind us? Perhaps it’s cringe to even pose that question. At SSENSE, the new hot person paradigm is coalescing via a complex matrix of consumer analytics, social media tags and comments, and proprietary knowledge that cannot be shared, only hinted at. Ghosts in the machines. Hot ghosts.

No complaints yet from a new regimen of scalp treatments made to make your hair shine.

It starts with Vitamin C serum. Retinol. Gua sha. That’s the face. You apply body oil after you dry brush. You wear Bala bangles more than regular jewelry and your Tracy Anderson punch card is in tatters. Forgetting something? It’s what’s on top that really matters in 2023.

The final frontier of skin care is hiding in plain sight—under your mane. Prioritize scalp care by purifying and massaging with Sachajuan’s specially formulated scalp scrub: It cleanses without stripping away moisture. Opt for R+Co’s Crown Scalp Scrub or Virtue’s Exfoliating Scalp Treatment to stimulate follicles for subsequent hair growth. As for the hair? Use Philip B’s Scalp Booster Oil or Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Super Anti-Aging Scalp Serum as an overnight indulgence. Follow this routine and your hair will be serving body-ody-ody better than any Pilates-sculpted lower abs could.

Saying goodbye to the Raf Simons brand nearly 30 years after its founding.

In 2005, the self-effacing Belgian Raf Simons summarized his career, then only a decade old: "I have done what I believed in. So what is recognition? For me, recognition is about people you have a relation with. Somewhere, in some city in America, someone is wearing my clothes, and I’m happy with that." Decades later, he’s gone well beyond that modest ambition; the sudden announcement of the label’s end feels like yet another moment defined simply by the designer’s singular vision.

Simons founded his line in 1995, led to his career by a near-spiritual epiphany he had watching Martin Margiela present a collection on a Parisian playground in 1989. With his skinny suits in the ‘90s, the seminal and ominously destabilizing “Riot Riot Riot” collection in 2001, and his graphic-heavy ability to merge music and contemporary art with fashion, Simons created (and recreated) menswear as it exists today. And now his eponymous line takes a bow—SS23 is the final Raf Simons collection, though he remains co-creative director at Prada. “Deadstock in memory,” Frank Ocean once said, “Please don’t pop my tag.”